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Ecuador’s third
largest city with about 200,000 inhabitants, this is perhaps the most
attractive city to visit. Cuenca is normally not included in the usual
short Sierra round trip itinerary, but if you have time to travel further
south, it is well worth seeing.
Most people
fly to Cuenca, although some adventurous tourists prefer to drive all
the way from Quito. It’s a long, winding and dusty trip along the Pan-American
Highway South, but you are rewarded with great sights and breathtaking
views. You should stay at least once overnight. By bus expect a minimum
of 11 hours from Quito.
Cuenca was
formally the Inca town of Tomebamba, but most of the Inca stonework
was destroyed by the Spanish and replaced by colonial buildings. Its red
tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, flowery plazas
and museums make it a very interesting and beautiful place to explore.
The central
square, Parque Calderón, is dominated by the new Cathedral,
build in pink marble and has splendid blue domes. It contains a famous
crowned image of the Virgin. You also find there the old Cathedral,
which has a fine organ. The other side of the square is lined with the
Court of Justice, the Municipal Palace, the Governor’s
Palace and the Church of El Sagrario.
Cuenca is full
of wonderful museums. The Museum of the Conceptas has a good collection
of Colonial art; the Remigio Crespo Museum shows archaeological
relicts and religious art; the Museum of Indigenous Cultures holds
the well known archaeological collection of Juan Cordero. But these are
only a few to mention.
There are lots
of local markets and craft shops where you find pottery, woven tapestries
with indigenous designs, exquisitely embroidered skirts and the famous
Panama hats. The Panama hat originally comes from Ecuador. In Cuenca
you find the best indigenous artisans, who weave straw with experienced
nimbleness into Panama hats of the very finest quality you can find. It
is fascinating to watch them in their workshops.
About 30 km
west of Cuenca is the stunning “El Cajas" national park - a lake
district with 230 lakes. You start at about 3,000 m above sea level and
it is windy and cold up there. But the scenery is breathtaking, especially
on a sunny day.
Another of
the many side trips is Ingapirca, 96km (60miles) from Cuenca.
It is the most northern fortress-temple of the Incas.
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